GTL - Grande Traversata delle Langhe - Tappa 13A: Pavaglione - S. Donato

Galleria foto
Tipo di attività
Escursionismo
no
Lunghezza
13.70 km
Tempo
4 ore
Tappa
13 / 17
Dislivello salita
786 m
Dislivello discesa
777 m
Difficoltà
Escursionistico difficile
Indice itinerario
No
    Informazioni

    Punto di partenza

    Indirizzo

    Pavaglione
    Località San Bovo
    12050 Castino CN
    Italia

    Quota
    640 m
    {"type":"Point","coordinates":[8.138122,44.644186]}

    Punto di arrivo

    Indirizzo di arrivo

    S. Donato
    Strada Provinciale 270, 47-35
    San Donato di Mango
    12056 Mango CN
    Italia

    Quota di arrivo
    640 m
    {"type":"Point","coordinates":[8.154556,44.662583]}

    Come arrivare

    Accesso

    In macchina:
    A6 – Torino Savona, uscita Marene o Carmagnola
    A21 – Torino Piacenza, uscita Asti Est
    A33 – Asti Cuneo, uscita Alba

    In aereo:
    Milano Malpensa e Linate – www.sea-aeroportimilano.it
    Torino Caselle – www.aeroportoditorino.it
    Cuneo Levaldigi – www.aeroporto.cuneo.it

    In treno:
    Ferrovie dello Stato: www.trenitalia.com

    Accesso con mezzi pubblici

    Http://Www.grandabus.it/Tpl_orari.asp

    Descrizione

    Variante al percorso di cresta della GTL, questo tratto conduce a San Donato di Mango, regalando emozioni uniche agli amanti della storia.

     

    Si parte dal Pavaglione, la cascina di Agostino e Tobia, i protagonisti de “La Malora” di Fenoglio, oggi centro culturale in cui si tengono mostre e convegni, oltre a reading letterari e giornate fenogliane. Ma la collina del Pavaglione è anche uno dei luoghi della guerra civile del 43-45, ovvero il teatro dove si svolge gran parte de “Il Partigiano Johnny”, il grande affresco della Resistenza a cui Fenoglio attese per lunghi anni e che, infine, uscì postumo e incompiuto. Il percorso che parte dal Pavaglione e arriva a San Donato ricostruisce appunto quello che il protagonista affronta durante una delle sue numerose fughe dai rastrellamenti nazifascisti.

    Superato l’ingresso del Pavaglione, si prosegue sulla stradina pianeggiante fino alla vicina cascina, per poi inoltrarsi nel bosco di radi pini che scende tra i rittani. Si parte, dunque, con una delle più epiche frasi della letteratura fenogliana che, seppur molto citata, resta mirabile per l’essenziale perfezione: “Partì verso le somme colline, la terra ancestrale che l’avrebbe aiutato nel suo immoto possibile, nel vortice del vento nero, sentendo com’è grande un uomo quando è nella sua normale dimensione umana…” Dopo poche decine di metri, giunti ad un bivio, si scende a destra nella vegetazione, e, prima di una radura, si scende ancora a destra nel bosco. La stradina sterrata prosegue verso il basso fino a raggiungere un incrocio nel fitto del castagneto, dove il percorso prosegue a destra (seguendo la strada verso sinistra si raggiunge il Pilone del Chiarle). Guadagnando in breve un’ultima radura, ennesimo coltivo abbandonato, sovrastata dalle cascine di Serra dei Pini (a sinistra, quella color salmone) e Serra, più in basso a destra. Si costeggia la radura verso destra, su sentiero meno evidente, entrando nuovamente nel bosco e percorrendo, in leggera salita, un lungo tratto del versante, caratterizzato da un castagneto ceduo, fino a raggiungere la Cascina Baracchi, che pur ridotta ad un rudere, riesce a comunicare molto sulla durezza della vita di un tempo.

    Si costeggiano gli edifici in pietra e, dopo un breve tratto di sentiero dal fondo fangoso, data la presenza di numerose sorgenti, il viottolo torna a farsi più evidente. In breve si raggiunge, in una curva, la strada sterrata che scende dalla frazione San Bovo: la si segue a sinistra, in discesa, tra i vecchi recinti di un allevamento ovino, si sale a destra al primo bivio, e al successivo, inconfondibile per un palo della linea elettrica, si scende invece a sinistra. Si prosegue per un tratto ripido, mantenendosi sul tracciato più evidente, fino ad uscire dalla vegetazione nei pressi di un grande prato: proprio di fronte si staglia, sul cocuzzolo, la chiesetta di Sant’Elena.

    Per raggiungerla si piega a sinistra verso le vicinissime case di Cascina Cascina: si attraversa l’ampio cortile e, subito dopo la prima casa, si piega a destra, seguendo un sentiero evidente che scende nel pioppeto. Si procede quindi verso sinistra, in piano, per tornare a scendere, tra la fitta vegetazione, verso il fondo del vallone. Giunti di fronte ad un’evidente rocca, con un ultimo tratto più ripido e fangoso, che richiede attenzione, si raggiunge il Rio di Sant’Elena. Superato il modesto guado, si risale l’opposto versante del vallone con il sentiero a picco sul corso d’acqua, in un paio di tratti esposto. In breve si raggiungono i coltivi posti sotto la casa Signognia e si guadagna una stradina asfaltata: la si segue a sinistra, per pochi metri, fino al bivio per Sant’Elena; si piega a destra e, sempre su asfalto, si raggiungono le case della frazione. Seguendo la sterrata tra i terrazzamenti vitati, con un ultimo strappo nella vigna si raggiunge la chiesetta, posta sulla sommità della collina, in posizione dominante sulla Valle Belbo. Di fronte, il profilo del paese di Castino, per sempre inciso da questa descrizione del rastrellamento subito: “Diciotto torri di fumo, compatto, inscuotibile anche da vento forte, sorgevano dal paese, senza movimento di uomini intorno agli stakes di quel fuoco gigantesco.”

    Si lascia la chiesetta alle proprie spalle e si percorre la stradina che, costeggiando l’ampio vigneto, segue sinuosa la cresta della collina, per salire, con un ripido tratto, al culmine della dorsale. Si scende al successivo colletto e, abbandonando la cresta, si piega a destra su sterrata e si perde quota fino all’incrocio con una strada inghiaiata. Si piega ancora a destra, scendendo fino alle case Braida e, sempre su inghiaiata, si percorre in leggera discesa un lungo tratto nel bosco. È necessario imboccare un viottolo sterrato a sinistra, poco evidente, che nel primo tratto pare voler tornare verso la testata della valle. La stradina perde quota lentamente: la si abbandona poi per un sentiero, a destra, che consente di raggiungere il fondovalle. L’ultimo tratto richiede attenzione, per il terreno scivoloso e per l’esiguità del sentiero.

    Superato il Rio dell’Annunziata (guado), ci si ritrova a pochi metri dalla strapiombante Rocca Croera, su di una strada sterrata (che scendendo verso destra permetterebbe di raggiungere l’abitato di Rocchetta Belbo) e si affronta il versante opposto del vallone con una traccia di sentiero che risale il ripido pendio, immergendosi nel fitto della vegetazione, fino a raggiungere l’antico percorso, più marcato, che sale tra i pini, verso destra. “Si rialzarono e mossero i primi passi verso l’alto. Facevano strada nel cuore del bosco, tra la vallata lacerata da sporadici spari e la cresta perfettamente silenziosa, a metà della grande collina. Camminavano nel bosco, in zone d’ombra sempre più cupe, nel crescendo del vento…”

    Raggiunto un nuovo, spettacolare, risalto lo si aggira salendo verso sinistra, con alcuni gradoni esposti che sfruttano gli strati rocciosi, fino a superare un deposito di materiali e raggiungere una strada asfaltata. La si segue a sinistra fino ad un bivio, dove si sale a destra sulla stradina che porta alla Cascina Rocchetta e, con un tratto molto panoramico, alla Cascina Croce. Al cancello si sale nel vigneto a sinistra, districandosi tra le capezzagne e raggiungendo al meglio la sommità, dove si sale ancora a sinistra sull’ampia sterrata che segue la dorsale della collina. Si costeggia la vigna, con un tratto molto panoramico, e si prosegue sulla sterrata che sale lievemente, mantenendosi poco sotto la cresta (trascurando le stradine che salgono a destra) per percorrere un ampio anfiteatro, splendido nel periodo della fioritura delle numerosissime ginestre.

    Dopo una curva, si abbandona la strada all’imbocco del cortile di una cascina per scendere a sinistra su di un sentiero che, percorso un filare di una piccola vigna, giunge ad una stradina asfaltata. La si deve seguire verso destra e, superati un paio di panoramici tornanti, si riguadagna la cresta in località Pian, costeggiando le case tra vigneti e noccioleti. Si continua sul filo dell’ampia dorsale, fino alle pendici del Bric di Badin. Se si ha tempo, si abbandona ancora l’asfalto (che porta comunque a San Donato) in una curva subito dopo un bivio per affrontare, a destra, un ripido sterrato che costeggia una recinzione, puntando alla sommità della collina. Lo sforzo viene ripagato dal panorama, sconfinato nelle giornate più limpide.

    Per raggiungere la frazione di San Donato è necessario seguire, verso destra, la dorsale pianeggiante, con il sentiero che, dopo aver costeggiato un vigneto, si addentra in un boschetto di pini e di ginepri. Una sinuosa discesa ed un ultimo tratto pianeggiante consentono di raggiungere la Cappella degli Alpini, dove il panorama si apre sulla Bassa Langa e sulle Alpi. Le case di San Donato, frazione di Mango, sono a circa 1 km: si raggiungono scendendo sulla stradina a destra e seguendo poi l’asfalto. Ci si riempie gli occhi di queste colline ora meno selvagge, ma sempre indomite, con un’ultima memorabile citazione (tratta però da “Una questione privata”) che riassume perfettamente il rimpianto e la rassegnazione che, quasi ottanta anni fa, un destino ingrato assegnò a quella generazione di ragazzi: “Le aveva sempre pensate, le colline, come il naturale teatro del suo amore, e gli era invece toccato di farci l’ultima cosa immaginabile, la guerra.”

    Da Marzo a Novembre

    Accessibile ai disabili

    No

    Punti di interesse

    Percorsi Fenogliani
    Mango : Castello dei Marchesi di Busca , Enoteca Regionale delle Colline del Moscato.
    San Donato di Mango : Casa delle Memorie .

    Profilo altimetrico

    Dati tecnici

    Codice
    GTL
    ATL di riferimento
    ATL di Langhe e Roero
    Nazione
    Italia
    Regione
    Piemonte
    Provincia
    Cuneo
    Fonte
    Unione Montana Alta Langa
    Interesse devozionale
    No
    Interesse storico
    No
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    Ultima data di aggiornamento
    14/07/2024

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